The Margiela Era
In 1997, Martin Margiela was appointed Artistic Director at Hermès. Known for his avant-garde and deconstructive creations, his approach at Hermès was surprisingly centered on “refined everyday wear.”
By stripping away excessive decoration and focusing on silhouette and material, Margiela presented collections that came to be described as “quiet luxury.” Even today, these designs are held in high regard for their timeless appeal. Key pieces include the Vareuse dress, turtleneck tops, the H-button, oversized stoles, and the experimental calligraphy prints.
The Vareuse Dress — Everyday Luxury
The “Vareuse” was originally inspired by simple workwear worn by farmers and laborers. Margiela reinterpreted this utilitarian garment with Hermès’ finest fabrics and precise tailoring, elevating it into a masterpiece that blends practicality with luxury.
Its most notable feature is the deep V-slit neckline, designed not just for style but also for practicality—allowing the wearer to slip the dress on and off without disturbing hair or makeup. This harmony of functionality and elegance embodies the very essence of Margiela’s vision at Hermès.
Lamb Suede Model
Among the rarest variations is the lamb suede Vareuse. The soft, velvety texture creates a graceful drape and unique depth to its silhouette. As the wearer moves, subtle shadows emerge, giving the dress an understated richness characteristic of Margiela’s “quiet experimentation.”
Turtleneck Tops — A Signature of Margiela’s Philosophy
The turtleneck tops crafted from fine silk or cashmere became one of the most symbolic items of the Margiela era. Free of logos or overt branding, their appeal lies purely in their refined silhouette and luxurious fabrics.
Versatile in both standalone wear and layering, these turtlenecks embody timeless elegance. Their simplicity allows them to transcend trends, making them as relevant today as they were over two decades ago.
The H-Button — Subtle Yet Iconic
The discreet “H-button,” featured on coats and cardigans, is a perfect example of Margiela’s approach. Minimalist in form yet unmistakably Hermès, it balances restraint with identity.
This small but powerful detail illustrates how Margiela seamlessly integrated house codes into pared-back designs.
Stoles — Experimentation and Unisex Elegance
Pocketed Model
The oversized stole with added pockets reflects Margiela’s playful ingenuity. By merging accessory and garment, it transcends conventional boundaries to become a functional everyday piece.
Herringbone Model
The classic herringbone weave provides depth and subtle visual texture. Whether draped over a jacket or wrapped around the neck, this versatile piece suits both men and women, highlighting Margiela’s genderless design approach.
Calligraphy Prints — Speaking Through Visual Rhythm
The calligraphy print stands as one of the era’s most experimental expressions. Handwritten-style lettering was used not to convey words but as visual rhythm and texture across fabric.
This design added an artistic dimension to minimalist silhouettes, embodying Margiela’s idea of clothing that communicates not through logos or statements, but through everyday elegance. Even now, these pieces remain highly sought after among collectors worldwide.
Conclusion — The Essence of “Quiet Luxury”
Hermès apparel under Martin Margiela carries a unique philosophy: understated yet profoundly rich. From the functional elegance of the Vareuse dress to the timeless simplicity of turtlenecks, the subtle H-button, unisex stoles, and experimental calligraphy prints—each reflects the core of “quiet luxury.”
It is precisely this balance of restraint and refinement that allows these designs to transcend time, gender, and trend. More than 20 years later, they continue to captivate and inspire fashion enthusiasts around the globe.